Custom Plates
Custom Corner Plate
A corner plate drawn to your beam and post, where one timber ends at the other. Enter the timbers as measured, say which one runs to the corner, then set each leg, the bolts, and the ends. One plate fits all four corners by turning it or flipping it over. Cut from A36 steel in 3/16", 1/4", 3/8", or 1/2".
Made to order: ships in 14–16 business days.
- Ships free in the lower 48 states.
- 5% off orders over $2,000, 10% off over $5,000. No code needed.
01 Details
What a corner plate joins
A corner plate bolts a beam and a post together where they meet at a right angle and one of them stops: the beam sitting on top of the post, or the post running up past the end of the beam. One leg runs along the beam and the other down the post, with bolts through each, and the outside corner stays square, as our catalog corner plates' does. It assumes the beam's and the post's faces are flush. Where the beam runs on past the post, use the custom T plate. If a catalog size fits, our corner plate is ready-drawn in six collections for 3" to 12" timbers.
Sizes this designer makes
- Timbers: 2 1/2" to 15 1/2", entered as measured, in 1/8" steps.
- Legs: 6" to 36" along the beam and 6" to 36" down the post, each measured from the outside corner.
- Reveal: the timber showing beside the plate, which you set. No leg is narrower than 2".
- Bolts: 1/4" to 3/4", in one row or two. You set how many go in the beam and in the post, and whether one goes at the corner.
- Ends: square, clipped, rounded, or pointed, with sharp or rounded inside corners.
The designer opens on our catalog L4 plate on surfaced 6x6 timbers: 10" along the beam and 16" down the post, 5/8" bolts, square ends, in 1/4" steel. Change any of it.
Where the bolts go
The first question is how far the bolts sit from the ends and edges of your timbers, and from each other. Minimum distances, the default, holds every bolt to the American Wood Council's NDS minimums for softwood: 3 1/2 bolt diameters from the end of a timber, 1 1/2 from its edge, and 3 from the next bolt. That's how we lay out our own plates. Full-strength distances doubles the end distance to 7 diameters and spaces bolts 4 apart, so plates come out larger or with fewer bolts. No minimum distances puts each bolt where you set it. Wood that close to a bolt can split, so have your engineer check that layout. At a corner, the end of the timber that stops is the one to watch. The bolt spacing and edge distance guide explains the numbers.
How it's priced
By weight: the steel in your plate, less its holes, with shipping in the lower 48 built in. There's no charge for design or setup. The price changes as you change the plate, and the price you see is the price you pay. A plate over $500 goes through the quote form instead.
Questions
Do I need a left and a right?
No. One corner plate fits all four corners of a frame: turn it, or flip it over. Order one for each face of each corner you plate.
Which thickness should I choose?
3/16" is our standard plate and suits most decorative work. 1/4" is a third heavier and stiffer, and 3/8" and 1/2" heavier still. Our plates are architectural hardware, not engineered or load-rated: if a plate is part of how your structure carries load, your engineer decides whether it's suitable and how thick it should be.
The basics
- A36 steel plate, laser cut in our ISO 9001 shop in Texas.
- Holes are cut 1/16" larger than the bolt you choose. Bolts aren't included.
- Enter your timbers' real size, not their name. How to measure a timber.
- Bare steel, or matte black powder coat added in the cart.
- Ships free in the lower 48 states.
- No published load ratings. Ask your engineer, and see what to give them.